We often hear stories about Lewis and Clark and how
successfully they maneuvered the vast unknown of the US. However successful they were, there are tales
of the incompatibility of their personalities and I am reminded of a time in my
past when I traversed this country to visit our neighbor to the north, Canada.
I graduated
college in May, 1993, and was to set out on the course of my new career when I
realized I had neglected to actually obtain employment. Having no idea what to do with myself, I
moved home and panicked. I decided I needed to travel and my best friend John
Allen’s parents had a lovely resort in Nestor Falls, Ontario and I had been
invited to join them for a week or two. My
parents and I looked at our finances and to the bus station we went.
Have you ridden a
bus from McComb, Mississippi, to Duluth, Minnesota? No? Well
I have. It took more than 24 hours of
non-stop driving and I use the term loosely.
We stopped for about three minutes in every podunk town on the route
through Tennessee, Missouri, Illinois, Iowa and Wisconsin. I don’t know if our driver was lost or drunk
but we weaved our way northward spending hours-long stops in both Memphis and
Chicago.
Do you know what
people do in the bathrooms of the Chicago bus station? Well I don’t because I refused to enter due
to the overwhelming stench of “stock show” greeting me before I crossed the
threshold. I took refuge with the kindly
snack bar manager who let me spend time in the employee breakroom because, in
her words, “You don’t look like you belong here, honey”. I concurred and enjoyed my respite from “the bus
people”.
I made it to
Duluth, the rendezvous point as John’s brother Lee lived there and it is very,
very clean and very, very close to the border.
Upon my arrival, we ate, watched a Joan Rivers standup special, slept
and headed to Allen’s Crow Lake Lodge on the shores of Kakagi Lake. Kakagi is the word for crow in a language I
failed to establish. We headed to the
land of ketchup-flavored potato chips armed only with a driver’s license as it
was all you needed back in the gentle, innocent days of the 1990s, well before
anyone wanted a piece of Britney and she was simply a former Mouseketeer whose
family lived about 15 miles away from mine, just across the border into
Louisiana.
Upon arrival I was
greeted warmly by the family and coolly by the weather. August in Canada is simply delicious weather;
70 degree days and 50 degree nights which required a lovely fire. I was not sweating in the summertime and I
was loving life even though I was voluntarily swimming which required a level
of public nudity I felt inappropriate. I
tried water skiing but was unable to surface on the skis, even when they tried
to start me from the end of the pier. My
body is not built for water sports, such as canoeing, which I try to avoid.
It was decided by
those who decide such things that we were to fish and I was to participate,
just like in my youth in the Texas and Mississippi. At least this time there would be no sweating
but the setting, ominously, was canoe-related and I’m not referring to the
cologne from the 90s. The day began with
John and his father in one canoe. I and
the 12 year-old cabin boy Stephen were in the other. Yes, the Allen’s are a two-canoe family. It’s fancy up in Canada, y’all.
At the time of the event, I was 6’ and approximately
275 pounds give or take a Frito Pie; Stephen was 5’5” at best and 110 pounds at
most. Due to the differences in our
masses, the canoe was riding low in the rear and barely skimming the surface of
the lake in the front. I don’t know the
nautical term for popping a wheelie but were doing so, I can assure you.
Anyone familiar with canoe etiquette knows you must
paddle on opposite sides of the craft in order to keep your forward momentum on
a reasonably straight trajectory. John and
his Dad were making great time. Young
Stephen and I, on the other hand, were taking a more meandering route. For every deep stroke I made, Stephen’s
paddle did little to counter so we made continual, lovely loop-the-loops in the
water as if we were a graceful, but boring Ice Capader.
It was bad enough we fell further and further behind,
but all the circling had caused me nausea, coupled with an irrational fear of a
snake swimming in my back pocket (as the water was mere centimeters from the
top edge of the vessel). The only thing
keeping us from being forever lost in the mists of Kakagi Lake was the repeated
stops by the Allen men due to their constant laughter at our performance.
Even in adrift on Canadian waterways, I’m funny.
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